Toilet Preparations
HAIR LOTIONS
Hair lotions have a stimulating effect upon the hair follicle. They are generally perfumed with oil of rosemary as it possesses a good stimulating property.
Cantharides Lotion
1
| Tincture Cantharides |
½ dr. |
| Aqua Sambuci |
11 oz. |
| Ess. Rosemary (double) |
5 dr. |
Procedure: Mix and shake well. It well promote the growth of hair.
Millefleurs Lotion
| Oil Lavender |
3 oz. |
| Essence Lemon |
3 oz. |
| Essence Ambergris |
4 oz. |
| Oil Caraway |
2 oz. |
| Rose Water |
12 oz. |
Procedure: Mix and shake well. To be used after 3 months.
Hungary Lotion
Rectified Spirit1 pint Oil of Rosemary1 oz. Essence of Ambergris2 dr. Rose Water6 oz.
Procedure: Mix together; shake well, and leave aside for 1 month.
Lavenia Lotion
| Rectified Spirit |
1 quart |
| Rose Water |
½ pint |
| Essential Oil of Lemon |
½ oz. |
| Otto de Rose |
15 minims. |
| Oil of Cloves |
30 minims. |
| Oil of Neroli |
10 minims. |
Procedure: Mix the oils in spirit and shake until dissolved. Then add the rose water and allow to mature for about a month.
Odour Delectabilis
Rose Water4 oz.
| Orange Flower Water |
4 oz. |
| Oil of Lavender |
1 dr. |
| Oil of Cloves |
1 dr. |
| Oil of Bergamot |
2 dr. |
| Musk artificia |
l2 gr. |
| Rectified Spirit |
1 pint |
Procedure:
Mix together and shake until dissolved well. Use after 1 month.
Hair Stimulating Lotion
I
Cantharidin0.02 grams Acetic ether1 c.c Glacial acetic acid6 c.c. Bay rum250 c.c. Glycerine50 c.c. Water to produce1000 c.c.
Procedure: Dissolve the cantharidin in the acetic ether and add to the bay rum. Then add the other ingredients.
II
| Acetum cantharides |
15 c.c. |
| Alcohol |
150 c.c. |
| Rosemary oil |
15 c.c. |
| Bergamot oil |
10 c.c. |
| Lavender oil |
5 c.c. |
| Rose oil |
5 c.c. |
| Glycerine |
50 c.c. |
| Water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
III
| Quinine Sulphate |
2 grams |
| Tincture of cantharidin |
8 c.c. |
| Eau de Cologne |
750 c.c. |
| Iso-butyl Salicylate |
5 c.c. |
| Orange flower water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
Procedure: Dissolve the alkaloid in the eau de cologne, add the tincture and the iso-butyl salicylate. Mix the glycerine with 200 c.c. of the water, and add.
IV
Quinine hydrochloride 3 grams Pilocarpine hydrochloride 1 gram Lavender water200 c.c. Glycerine20 c.c. Rose water to produce1000 c.c.
Procedure: Dissolve the alkaloidal salts in the lavender water and proceed as above. Filter, if necessary.
V
| Tincture of cantharidin |
5 c.c. |
| Solution of ammonia |
50 c.c. |
| Borax |
25 grams |
| Glycerine |
50 c.c. |
| Rosemary Oil |
10 c.c |
| Alcohol 90 p.c. |
125 c.c. |
| Rosewater |
200 c.c. |
| Orange flower oil |
300 c.c. |
| Water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
Procedure: Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and borax in the glycerine and water. Then mix the two solutions and make up to volume with water.
VI
| Pilocarpine nitrate |
5 grams |
| Alcohol |
90 c.c. |
| Tincture of cantharidin |
10 c.c. |
| Heliotropin |
5 grams |
| Verbena oil |
3 c.c. |
| Lavender oil |
2 c.c. |
| Glycerine of borax |
50 c.c. |
| Water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
Procedure: Same as in (V) above.
LIPSTICKS
Lipsticks are now a universally accepted article of make-up and vary in price very much according to the skill of the manufacturer together with the degree of elegance of the presentation of this cosmetic.
The requirements of a good lipstick are that it must not be injurious, it must spread easily without being excessively greasy; its colour must be reasonably permanent; it must not sweat, crack or crumble. In addition to these requirements its colour must be absolutely uniform, unchanging and free mottling.
I
| Spermaceti |
31 parts |
| Paraffin |
5 parts |
| Cocoa butter |
7 parts |
| Cholesterin |
26 parts |
| Castor oil |
4 parts |
| Benzoated lard |
8.5 parts |
| Perfume |
9 parts |
| Benzoic-acid |
1 parts |
| Bromo-acid (acid eosine) |
2.5 parts |
| Butyl stearate |
5 parts |
| Colour |
10 parts |
Procedure: Dissolve the bromo acid in the butyl stearate, and add the castor oil. Mix the cholesterin and benzoated lard. Add the bromo acid mixture and the colour. Mix thoroughly and run the mass through a mill four times. Then melt the spermaceti, the paraffin and cocoa butter, and add the colour mass. Mix thoroughly and add the perfume and benzoic acid. When the mass reaches 110° F keep the temperature of the batch at this point while filling the moulds. The best way to do this is to use a small insulated pouring pot which will hold enough to fill one set of moulds. This can be replenished from the main supply from time to time.
Some manufacturers after this procedure melt the waxes and fats together and mix in the colour, bromo acid and perfume. Then they allow the temperature to drop slightly until the batch becomes sufficiently viscous to grind, then the batch is run through the milling rolls several times after which the sticks are moulded. This is an excellent procedure if the milling rolls or mill can be heated, but if a hot mass is run through a cold mill the wax will crystallize and the resulting product will be unsatisfactory.
II
| Cocoa butter |
5 parts |
| Cetyl alcohol |
3 parts |
| Stearic acid |
4 parts |
| Paraffin wax |
4 parts |
| Spermaceti |
5 parts |
| White beeswax |
21 parts |
| Lanolin |
5.5 parts |
| Benzoated lard |
32 parts |
| Castor oil |
6 parts |
| Perfume |
.9 parts |
| Benzoic acid |
.1 parts |
| Bromo acid |
2.5 parts |
| Colour |
10 parts |
Procedure: Proceed as before.
III
| White wax |
7 oz. |
| Spermaceti |
1 oz. |
| Liquid paraffin |
11/2 oz. |
| Carmine |
2 dr. |
| Perfume |
q.s. |
Procedure: Melt the waxes over a water bath and the finely powdered carmine is ground in. Then mix the liquid paraffin. Now strain the hot liquid through linen and set aside. When the temperature has come down to 110° F, pour it into moulds to set.
Perfume generally used is about one-half percent coumarin or any other suitable perfume material.
IV
| Vaselinec |
15 oz. |
| Beeswax |
10 oz. |
| Spermaceti |
400 gr. |
| Carmine |
6 dr. |
Perfume to suit
Procedure : Melt and stir. Allow to cool a little before adding perfume. Pour into moulds.
V
| Paraffin wax |
2 oz. |
| White Vaseline |
3 oz. |
| White beeswax |
1 oz. |
| Ceresine |
3 oz. |
| Titanium dioxide |
1 oz. |
| Carmine |
6 dr. |
Procedure: Proceed as before.
POMADES
The pomades are much in favour as toilet articles. The chief ingredient in all pomades is a soft white basis of white wax, spermaceti, lard, suet, vaseline, etc. When lard, suet, vaseline, etc. are used they should be previously refined and made free of all impurities and obnoxious matters. Other fats such as olive oil, almond oil, etc. may also be employed in conjunction with the above to serve as the basis.
The Mode of Preparation
To prepare the pomade the first step is to melt the pomade stock on a water bath and add the olive and almond oils. Now the pan is removed from fire and when it begins to thicken stir in various scents in proportions at discretion.
In preparing pomades the manufacturers may note that an addition of soap improves pomades. Before perfuming add about 250 parts of soap dissoloved in hot water and bout 1¾ parts of borax to 12,500 parts of pomade stock. This renders the pomade as white as snow and very emollient, which is very difficult to attain by an addition of stearine. This pomade will bear an admixture of one-third water.
In clouring pomades use is generally made of alkanet root, annatoo, gamboge root, chlorophyll, etc. It is usual to tie up the drug in a piece of coarse cloth and dip in a part of the pomade stock. Gentle heat may be applied and the whole squeezed from time to time. The strongly coloured stock may be diluted with ordinary stock to bring it to the desired shade.
I
Procedure: Prepared suet, olive oil, each 8 ounces, lard 4 ounces. Melt on a water bath, then remove the vessel, and, when it begins to thicken, stir in the following scents, in quantity at discretion: Oil of cloves, sixty drops; oil of neroli, twenty drops: oil lavender, sixty drops; oil of bergamot, ninety drops; essence musk, fifty drops; mix. A slight colour may be given to it, according to the fancy of the manufacturers with alkanet root or gamboge root.
II
Procedure: Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.
III
Procedure: Strained suet, ten pounds; white wax, three quarters of a pound. Melt, then stir well in bergamot oil, one ounce; lemon oil, half an ounce; oil of rosemary, quarter of an ounce; oil of lavender, quarter of an ounce; rose water, one pint.
IV
Procedure : Clarified lard, twelve pounds; clarified suet, two pounds; essence of bergamot, one ounce; essence of lemon, half an ounce; oil of lavender, quarter of an ounce; rose water, eight ounces. Melt the first two, then take the pan from the fire and stir in the essences.
V
Procedure : Digest 20 parts of coconut oil and 1 part of benzoin, in coarse powder, in a waterbath for 2 hours. Now have 1 part of carnauba wax, 1 part of ceresine and 5 parts of liquid paraffin melted over a waterbath. Strain the benzoated oil into the molten mass of paraffin. The product may be perfumed as desired with essential oils.
VI
Procedure: Melt 2½ oz. of refined wax a slow fire and then add 8 oz. of coconut oil. On cooling add 15 drops of oil of bergamot and 9 drops of oil of henna and stir well.
VII
Procedure : Take refined coconut oil 8 oz, white wax 2½ oz. oil of bergamot 15 minims, oil of henna 5 minims and proceed as above. Add alkanet root to colour.
VIII
Procedure : Take white wax 2 oz., refined coconut oil 12 oz., rose geranium oil 5 minims and proceed as above. Add tincture carmine to colour.
IX
Procedure : Take pure castor oil 8 oz., white wax 3 oz., otto of rose 5 minims, and proceed as above. Add tincture grass to colour.
POMADE A LA ROSE
I
Procedure: Lard, four pounds; suet, 1 pound; alkanet root q.s. Macerate with heat to give a faint colour, then allow it to cool and before it sets, stir in five ounces of rose water and add otto of rose to perfume.
II
Procedure: Lard, suet, each one-pound; oil of almonds, four ounces. Mix, then add spirit of jasmine, one ounce and a half.
VANISHING CREAM
Vanishing cream is so called because it disappears when rubbed into the skin. It consists of stearic acid partially saponified with alkali, the bulk of the fatty acid being emulsified by the soap thus formed. The main constituent is, of course, water and mucilage of tragacanth or agaragar to prevent the collapsing of the cream and the whole is preserved with a trace of an aldehyde.
I
Procedure: Melt 60 grams of stearic acid in a tared vessel of about 2 litres capacity, over a waterbath, and add 9 grams of sodium carbonate, dissolved in the minimum amount of hot water; to this add 7 grams of glycerine. Keep the mixture on the waterbath for one hour, stirring constantly, but not vigorously; add sufficient water to bring the preparation to 300 grams; then add 300 grams of the hamamelis water. Return the container to the water-bath for a minute or two, stirring the mixture until perfectly smooth. Pour into a warm mortar and beat to a foam. Let it stand for 12 hours, stir with a spatula and pack.
II
Procedure: Mix agar-agar 180 gr., distilled water 8 fl. oz., distilled solution of hamamelis B.P. 12 fl. oz. and allow to stand for a few days with occasional stirring until softened. Strain through muslin. Now heat together stearic acid 360 gr., oil of theobroma 360 gr., sodium carbonate 240 gr., distilled water 12 fl. oz., on a water-bath stirring constantly until combination is completed; transfer to a large jar and whip in the first solution with an egg whisk until a white foamy product results. Perfume to taste. Allow to stand for 14 days so that air bubbles may escape, mix gently and bottle. Large quantities may be made in an emulsifying machine.
The preparation will not show any grit and will keep long.
III
Procedure: Bring 1 lb. of glycerine and 1½pint of water to a boil and add ½ oz. carbonate of potash. Strain through a piece of cloth and heat the whole mass again. In the meanwhile have ¼ lb. of stearine melted over a water bath and pour this slowly over the first liquor. Continue heating till the mass is completely saponified. Then remove it and add 15 drops of oil of bitter almonds and 20 drops of oil of lavender. Beat the whole until cool and pack.
IV
| Glycerine |
8¼ lbs. |
| Stearic acid (pure) |
4 ¾ lbs. |
| Distilled water |
224 fl. Oz. |
| Spirit |
16 fl. Oz. |
| Liquid ammonia(Sp. Gr. 0.888) |
4 ¾ oz. |
| Terpineol |
2 oz. |
| Synthetic Jasmine otto |
½ oz. |
| Synthetic Musk Crystals |
10 gr. |
| Phenyl acetaldehyde |
6 minims. |
Procedure: Melt the stearic acid on a water bath at 75.8C. Heat 2 lbs. of the glycerine with 192 oz. of the water to the same temperature, add ammonia, and pour into the melted stearic acid slowly, with constant stirring. Mix the rest of the glycerine and water and heat to 80°C, pour this into the first mixture with constant stirring, and continue the heat stirring for about 15 minutes. Remove from the fire and beat till cold. Mix perfumes with the spirit, and add slowly, with constant stirring to the cream.
Owing to the air and water present, these creams sometimes dry up. To avoid this add glycerine, grease, agar-agar and tragacanth.
V
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid, triple pressed |
200 |
| Postassium hydroxide-sticks |
14 |
| Water |
800 |
| Carbitol |
40 |
| Perfume |
10 |
Procedure: Dissolve the perfume in the carbitol and beat it into the cream at 20°C. To obtain a softer cream decrease the fatty acid and increase the potash.
VI
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
180 |
| Potassium carbonate crystals |
12 |
| Glycerine |
50 |
| Water |
750 |
| Bergamot oil |
2 |
| Lavender oil |
1 |
| Ylang-ylang oil |
1 |
| Vetivert oil |
1 |
| Geranium oil |
3 |
Procedure: Maintain the temperature at least 20 minutes, with vigorous stirring from the commencement of saponification. This will allow the greater part of the carbon dioxide to escape.
VII
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
180 |
| Caustic soda-stick |
9 |
| Glycerine |
50 |
| Water |
750 |
| Coumarin |
2 |
| Sandalwood oil |
2 |
| Vetivert oil |
1 |
| Methyl ionone |
6 |
Procedure: Dissolve the caustic soda in 360 parts of the hot water and add to the fatty acid. Mix the glycerine with the remainder of the water at the same temperature and stir in.
VIII
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
200 |
| Fresh lard |
20 |
| Strong solution of ammonia .880 |
10 |
| Distilled water |
750 |
| Linalol |
5 |
| Terpineol |
8 |
| Ylang-ylang oil |
2 |
| Coumarin |
4 |
| Oakmoss resin |
1 |
Procedure: Add the ammonia to the hot water, stir, and pour the solution rapidly into the melted fats, triturating briskly all the time.
IX
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
130 |
| Borax crystals |
58 |
| Sodium carbonate crystals |
12 |
| Water |
740 |
| Glycerine |
50 |
| Rose-geranium oil |
9 |
| Patchouli oil |
1 |
Procedure: Pour the melted stearic acid into the boiling solution of glycerine, water, borax, and soda. Continue to boil until the mixture gelatinises. Cool and add the perfume.
X
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
180 |
| Spermaceti |
20 |
| Triethanolamine |
20 |
| Carbitol |
70 |
| Perfume compound |
10 |
| Distilled water |
700 |
Procedure: Melt the fats and heat the liquid to the same temperature. Mix and stir until cool - add the perfume.
XI
Witch-hazel Foams are made on the same lines as vanishing creams, excepting that a proportion of the water is replaced by distilled extract of witch-hazel, which is added to the already saponified fatty acid:
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
180 |
| Potassium hydroxide |
12 |
| Water |
260 |
| Distilled solution of witch-hazel |
500 |
| Glycerine |
50 |
Perfume with rose otto if desired.
XII
Peroxide Creams contain hydrogen peroxide at the time of manufacture, but it seem doubtful if this exists as such when they are used. The only means of securing the presence of available oxygen is by stabilizing the peroxide with methyl parahydroxy benzoate.
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Stearic acid |
120 |
| Lanolin, anhydrous |
20 |
| Borax |
30 |
| Glycerine |
100 |
| Water |
670 |
| Hydrogen peroxide - 20 volumes |
50 |
| Jasmine |
6 |
| Bois de rose oil |
3 |
| Styrax R. |
1 |
Add the hydrogen peroxide while the cream is cooling.
COLD CREAM
Cold Cream is an emulsion in which the fat predominates, but the cooling effect produced when it is applied to the skin is due to the slow evaporation of the water contained. The base in general use is white beeswax, and traces of borax are occasionally added to aid emulsification. The perfume generally used is rose-either as aqua rosae or by the addition of otto. The method of manufacture is simple when borax is used, and consists of melting the wax on a waterbath, adding the oil, and warming the whole to about 80°C. The aqueous portion containing the borax is heated to this temperatue and stirred in slowly. The perfume is added when cool, and the cream is potted liquid if a brilliant white surface is desired.
I
| |
All in parts by weight |
| Almond oil |
550 |
| White wax |
145 |
| Borax |
10 |
| Rose otto |
5 |
II
| Peach Kernel oil |
600 |
| Spermaceti |
20 |
| White wax |
150 |
| Borax |
5 |
| Triple rose water |
215 |
| Phenylethyl alcohol |
5 |
| Geranium oil-French |
5 |
III
| Almond oil |
560 |
| White wax |
180 |
| Lanolin, anhydrous |
20 |
| Borax |
10 |
| Zinc oxide-finely sifted |
20 |
| Rose rouge |
5 |
| Rose-geranium oil |
5 |
IV
Mineral Cold Creams may be prepared with petroleum oil of 860 sp. gravity as follows:
Phenylethyl alcohol 4
| Paraffin liquid |
570 |
| White wax |
160 |
| Lanolin |
50 |
| Borax |
8 |
| Water |
200 |
| Geraniol |
8 |
V
Procedure: Melt 60 parts of white wax and 100 parts of spermaceti over a water bath, then add 1,000 parts of almond oil leaving the whole on the water bath. Next add 10 parts of castor oil, then 300 parts of rose water, stirring continuously. Finally incorporate 2 parts of oil of rose, 2 parts of oil of geranium and 10 parts of oil of bergamot and place in jars. A trace of methyl violet may be added to ensure that the preparation retains its whiteness.
VI
Procedure: Melt 1 oz. of white wax and 1 oz. of spermaceti; add 8 fl. oz. of oil of sweet almonds in which 1 oz. of camphor has been dissolved with very gentle heat; then gradually add 5 fl. oz. of rose water in which 4 dr. of powdered borax has previously been dissolved beating constanlly with a wooden spatula until cold. Finally add 10 drops of oil of rose. This will yield camphorated cold cream.
VII
Procedure: Take petroleum oil 600 gr., white wax 60 gr., paraffin 140 dr., Eau de Cologne 30 gr., water 200 gr., rose water 200 gr., tincture of benzoin 10 gr., oil of rose geranium 10 drops. Mix the solid matter in the warm oils and pour into the mixture little by little, stirring at the same time Eau de Cologne and the perfumes. Stir well to get perfectly white.
VIII
Procedure: Mix together oil of almonds 425 parts, lanolin 185 parts white wax 62 parts, spermaceti 62 parts. Make a solution of 4.5 parts of borax in 300 parts of rose water. Incorporate the solution to the solid ingredients
.
XI
Procedure: Tame spermaceti 4½ oz.; white wax 3 oz.; fresh oil of almonds, 18 oz.; melt over water bath and pour in a slightly warmed marble mortar and stir briskly to prevent granulation. When the mixture becomes of the consistency of butter, triturate until it has a white, creamy appearance; add little by little, under constant stirring, a mixture of double water of rose, 1½ oz.; odourless glycerine, 1½ oz.; mix for 20 minutes, then add 15 drops of essence of roses and beat for about half an hour, when it will be ready for use.
X
Procedure: Melt 6 oz. of spermaceti and 4 oz. of white wax on a water bath. Add fresh oil of almonds 24 oz. and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar under constant and lively stirring to prevent granulation until the mass has a white, creamy appearance and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add little by little, under constant stirring, 2 oz. of rose water and 2 oz. of pure glycerine, mixed together, and finally add oil of bergamot 24 drops, rose oil 6 drops, oil of bitter almonds 8 drops and tincture of ambergris 5 drops. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes; then immediately put into containers.
FACE POWDERS
In manufacturing face powders the materials should be ground to a very fine state of sub-division and then passed through sieve of at least 100 mesh. For perfect results 120 mesh sieve is recommended.
After grinding and sifting, the ingredients are taken in specified proportion and a small quantity of such a mixture is put in a mortar and rubbed with suitable colour and then mixed with the whole lot and sifted twice to make sure that sub-division of the basic pigments has been accomplished.
Perfumes are next added by spraying the liquid perfumes on to the powder as it falls through the silk sifter. The amount of perfume used should be reduced to a minimum.
I
Procedure: Mix zinc white 5 parts; English precipitated calcium carbonate, 30 parts; best white steatite, 5 parts; wheat of rice starch, 10 parts; triple extract of white rose, 3 parts; triple extract of jasmine, 3 parts; triple extract of orange flower, 3 parts; triple extract of cassia 3 parts; tincture of musk, 8 parts. The whole is to be mixed thoroughly by repeated siftings. Orrisroot in powder may be substituted for the perfumes.
II
Procedure : Take pearl or bismuth white and French chalk, equal parts. Reduce them to fine powder and sift through cloth. Lastly add some artificial perfumes, as desired.
III
Procedure: A face powder of rosy hue may be prepared as follows: Starch 1,000 grams, carmine 20 grams, otto of rose 15 grams, otto of khus khus 15 grams, sandal oil 15 grams.
IV
Procedure: Take oxide of zinc 1 oz.; starch 8¼ oz.; essence of rose 5 to 10 drops; and carmine, as much as required for producing the desired tint.
V
Procedure: Mix 32 parts of bergamot oil, 10 parts of lemon oil and 6 parts of musk infusion with 500 parts of magnesium carbonate. Then triturate 5000 parts of rice starch, 3500 parts of calcium sulphate, 1000 parts of talc and 200 parts of powdered orris. Finally pass through a fine sieve.
VI
| Rice Starch |
600 grams |
| Maize Starch |
200 grams |
| Talcum |
100 grams |
| Zinc Stearate |
50 grams |
| Zinc Oxide |
50 grams |
VII
| Rice Starch |
500 grams |
| Zinc Oxide |
400 grams |
| French Chalk |
100 grams |
| Magnesium Stearate |
100 grams |
TALCUM TOILET POWDER
Procedure:Talc, to be used as a toilet powder, should be in a state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small doses. As a perfume, rose oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is ½ dr. of the oil to 1 lb. of the powder. In order that the perfume may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should be triturated first with a small portion of it, this should then be further triturated with a larger portion, and if the quantity operated on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odouus besides that of rose would, of course, be suitable for a toilet power. Ylang-ylang would doubtles prove very attractive, but its use is rather restricted on account of its high price
FACE LOTION
I
Procedure: Dissolve 10gr. of alum and 1 gr. of zinc sulphate in little water, mix 1 fl. dr. of glycerine with the bulk of water and pour in 1 fl. dr. of tinture of benzoin and 30 drops of essence of Eau de Cologne. Finally add distilled water to make 1 pint and mix well. The result should be a non-separable milky lotion.
II
Procedure: Mix 40 oz. of lactic acid and 80 oz. of pure glycerine 5 gallons of distilled water. Now add 3 oz. of tincture of benzoin. Then colour with 40 grains of carmine and pour gradually a mixture of 1 oz. of commercial glycerine, ½ oz. of ammonia solution in 3 oz. of distilled water. Heat the whole to drive off ammonia and mix intimately. Shake well and set aside for a day, filter and add 1 drachm of solution of ionone and a small quantity of kaolin. Finally filter until clear.
III
| Lactic acid, syrupy |
5 c.c. |
| Glycerine |
100 c.c. |
| Tincture Benzoin |
10 c.c. |
| Tincture of Styrax |
10 c.c. |
| Patchouli R. |
1 c.c. |
| Rose Synthetic |
4 c.c. |
| Rose water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
Procedure : Dissolve the perfumes in the tinctures and add to the glycerine. Shake with 800 c.c. of water and then add the acid. Make up to volume with more rose water.
IV
| Hydrogen Peroxide 10 Vols. |
100 c.c. |
| Tincture Benzoin |
10 c.c. |
| Muguet Synthetic |
5 c.c. |
| Rose Water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
SUN BURN LOTION
| Zinc Hydroxide (25 p.c.) |
100 grams |
| Zinc Carbonate |
70 grams |
| Corn Starch |
30 grams |
| Glycerine |
50 c.c. |
| Tincture of Benzoin |
50 c.c. |
| Benzyl Cinnamate |
2 grams |
| Heliotropin |
5 grams |
| Tuberose Absolute |
1 gram |
| Water to produce |
1000 c.c. |
Procedure: Dissolve the perfumes in the tincture of benzoin. Tint the powders with Armenian bole if desired.
HAIR CURLING LOTION
Procedure: Potash (Pure), 7 g; ammonia 3½ g glycerine, 15 g; alcohol, 12 g; rose water, 550 g. Wash hair with soap before application. Make the hair wavy in the wet; tie it up. The will curl on drying.
NAIL POLISHES
I
| Celluloid film, cut small |
250 parts |
| Amylacetate |
250 parts |
| Acetone |
750 parts |
| Eosine A |
q.s. |
Procedure : Mix the last two ingredients and add the first. Allow to stand until dissolved.
II
| Stannic oxide |
300 grams |
| Talc |
300 grams |
| Osmo-Kaolin |
100 grams |
| Tragacanth |
2 grams |
| Glycerine |
50 c.c. |
| Citral |
1 c.c. |
| Water to make |
1000 c.c. |
Procedure : Rub the powders in a mortar with the glycerine, perfume and water, then pass through fine muslin.
FINGER-TIP COLOURING
| Alkanet |
½ oz. |
| Rectified Spirit |
12 oz. |
| Rose water |
4 oz. |
Procedure: Macerate for a week, add 10 drops of otto of rose, shake and filter.
A solution of eosine is also used; it should be made with perfumed spirits.
FRECKLE LOTION
I
| Potassium chlorate |
1.2 per cent |
| Borax |
7 per cent |
| Potassium carbonate |
3.7 per cent |
| Sugar |
3.7 per cent |
| Glycerine |
9 per cent |
| Rose water |
20 per cent |
| Alcohol |
10 per cent |
| Distilled water |
51 per cent |
| Perfume |
0.4 per cent |
Procedure: Make separate solutions of the potassium carbonate and potassium chlorate and borax with small quantities of water. Dissolve the sugar in the remainder of the water. Add the glycerine and rose water; mix, then add the other solutions, individually mixing before each addition. Add alcohol and perfumes.
]
II
| Acetic acid |
3 per cent |
| Lime Juice |
10 per cent |
| Glycerine |
6 per cent |
| Water |
70½ per cent |
| Perfume |
½ per cent |
| Alcohol |
10 per cent |
Procedure: Dissolve the concentrated lemon juice in the water and the acetic acid in the alcohol. Mix the perfume with he glycerine and add to the lemon juice solution, then add the acetic acid solution. Mix and filter.
ROUGE STICKS
Rouge sticks are very similar to lipsticks but these are slightly greasy and softer than the latter. The ideal lip rouge will rub on smoothly and also not come off easily. The carmine content should not exceed 20 per cent but the majority are made with much less. If a bright colour is desired, it can be obtained by the addition of zinc oxide.
General method of manufacture consists of melting and straining the fats and rubbing down the pigment in a warmed mortar with them, but for large-scale production, where a perfectly fine, smooth, and grainless article is desired the warmed mass should be milled. Formulas are appended:
I
| Liquid paraffin |
300 c.c. |
| Lanolin anhydrous |
150 grams |
| Ceresin (high m.p.) |
350 grams |
| Carmine |
200 grams |
| Linalyl cinnamate |
1 c.c. |
Procedure:Mix together.
II
| Ceresine |
300 grams |
| Almond oil |
50 c.c. |
| Soft paraffin |
500 grams |
| Zinc oxide |
50 c.c. |
| Carmine |
100 c.c. |
| Piperonal-vanillone |
1 gram |
HAIR FIXATIVE
Procedure: Dissolve 20 grams of boric acid in a litre of rose water, add 50 grams of pulverised gum tragacanth. After several hours heat the mixture on a water-bath and filter through gauze. Perfume with 5 grams of oil of rose geranium and 2 grams of phenyl ethyl alcohol and finally add 100 grams of tincture of benzoin. Triturate in a mortar and pour into pots.
NON-GREASY HAIR CREAM
| Gum tragacanth, pulverized |
4 dr. |
| Water |
1 quart |
| Alcohol, 90 per cent |
2 oz. |
| Cologne water |
2 oz. |
| Oil of cloves |
12 drops |
Procedure: Gently boil the tragacanth in water, strain through muslin, and when the mucilage is nearly cold, add alcohol, Cologne water and oil of cloves.
CANTHARIDES HAIR WASH
| Acetum Cantharides |
15 parts |
| Alcohol |
150 parts |
| Rosemary oil |
15 parts |
| Bergamot oil |
10 parts |
| Lavender Oil |
5 parts |
| Rose Oil |
5 parts |
| Glycerine |
50 parts |
| Water |
700 parts |
Procedure : Dissolve the oils in the spirit and the rest in water. Mix the two solutions and volume with water. Filter bright, using talc or Kieselguhr.
COCONUT OIL SHAMPOO
This is made by saponifying odourless oil with potash. Sometimes other fixed oils are added and these include palm, peanut, etc. , but they have a tendency to decrease the foaming properties of the product and are only used in cheaper grade articles. Usually 1,000 parts of coconut oil require for complete saponification about 300 parts of potassium hydroxide. This is dissolved in 1 litre of water at about 75°C and added to the oil at the same temperature in a steam pan. Saponification can be tested by using phenolphthalein as indicator. If the liquid remains white, further additions of alkali are necessary whereas when it turns red more oil should be added. The heat is continued until saponification has taken place and the product is neutral. It is then diluted to 5 litres with distilled water in which some carbonate of potash has been dissolved.
| Coconut Oil |
1000 parts |
| Potassium hydroxide |
300 parts |
| Distilled Water |
1000 parts |
| Potassium Carbonate |
30 parts |
| Distilled Water |
2970 parts |
It is now perfumed with any of the stable synthetics, such as linalol, terpineol, methyl acetophenone etc., or such oils as lavender and rosemary.
LIME JUICE CREAM
I
Procedure:Dissolve by gentle heat white wax,½oz.; oil of sweet almonds, 8 oz. gradually add glycerine, 1 oz.; lime water (aqua calcis B.P.) 32 gr. With 1 oz. water also add rectified Sprit, 1½ oz.; essence of lemon, 2 dr.; essential oil of almonds, 5 minims.
II
Procedure: Take white wax 1 part, oil of sweet almonds 20 parts, lime water 22 parts, glycerine 2 parts, oil of lemon part. The advantage of this preparation is that it does not become rancid; on the other hand, it exerts a stimulating effect on the roots of the hair.
LIME JUICE GLYCERINE
I
| Almond Oil |
25 oz. |
| Glycerine |
1½ oz. |
| Lemon Oil |
1¼ oz. |
| Lime Water to make |
80 ft. oz. |
Procedure: Mix well by shaking.
II
| Almond Oil |
2 oz. |
| Glycerine |
4 oz. |
| Tincture of Senegal |
1 dr. |
| Lime Water |
2 oz. |
| Rose Water |
4 oz. |
| Oil of Bergamot |
10 drops |
| Oil of Lemon |
20 drops |
Procedure: Shake well the oil of almond and tincture of senegal and then add the glycerine, lime water and rose water. Lastly perfume with essential oils. If the cream becomes rancid, add 4 grains of salicylic acid to each pint of the cream.
WRINKLE REMOVER
Procedure: Take white petrolatum, 7 av. oz; paraffin wax, ½ av. oz.; lanolin, 2av. oz.; water, 3ft,oz.oil of rose, 3 drops; vanillin, 2 gr.; alcohol, 1 fl. dr. Melt the paraffin, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and with constant stirring incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol. Preparations of this kind shiould be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.
BINDI LIQUID
| Carmine |
5 parts |
| Gum arabic |
8 parts |
| Water |
10 parts |
Procedure: Dissolve the gum in cold water and incorporate carmine.
]
BINDI STICK
| Wax |
1-1/8 dr. |
| Almond oil |
3 dr. |
| Carmine |
6 gr. |
| Otto of rose |
6 drops |
Procedure : Melt the wax over a water bath, then incorporate the almond oil. Now disolve the carmine in just enough solution of ammonia, put in a warm mortar, and add the bases. Next remove from the water bath and add the otto. Lastly pour the mass in tin moulds.
LIQUID BRILLIANTINE
| Castor oil |
2 oz. |
| Alcohol (95 p.c.) |
8 oz. |
| Oil of neroli |
5 minims. |
| Oil of rose geranium |
10 minims. |
| Oil of verbena |
5 minims. |
| Oil of lemon |
30 minims. |
Procedure : Dissolve the castor oil in the alcohol and then add the essential oils by one by shaking.
The liquid so obtained should be homogeneous.
CORN SALVE
| Salicylic acid |
6 dr. |
| Methyl Salicylate |
2 dr. |
| Wool fat |
2 oz. |
| Yellow wax |
2 oz. |
| Benzoated lard |
11 oz.' |
Mix.
STICK COSMETIC
| White wax |
1½ lbs. |
| Tallow |
3 " |
| Oil of bergamot |
2 oz. |
| Oil of cassia |
3 dr. |
| Oil of thyme |
1½ " |
Procedure: Mix the essential oils together and keep ready. Next melt the wax and tallow on a water bath. Now slowly stir in the essential oil mixture. Remove from the source of heat but continue stirring for a few minutes more until the mass is about to congeal. Now pour into suitable moulds.
| Benzoated lard |
1½ oz. |
| White wax |
3 " |
| Oil of bergamot |
1 dr. |
| Oil of cassia |
10 minims. |
| Oil of thyme |
5 minims. |
Procedure: Melt wax, add the lard, and stir until creamy; then add the perfume and pour into suitable moulds.
SCENT CARDS
Procedure: Mix thoroughly coumarin, 10 gr.; vanillin, 10 gr.; heliotropin, 10 gr.; ionone, 10 minims; hyacinthine, 5 minims; essence of musk, 30 minims; otto of rose, 5 minims; rectified spirit, 1 fl. oz. Then soak a piece of blotting paper in the mixture. The cards to be scented are put in a closed box along with blotting paper for a day or so. The cards will imbibe the scent.
PERFUME TABLET
Perfume tablets consist of a compressed mixture of rice starch, magnesium carbonate and powdered orris root with combination of scents and essences, etc. The following are a few typical recipes:
Violet
Ionone, 50 parts; ylang-ylang, 50 parts; tincture musk, strongest, 200 parts, tinture benzoin, 200 parts.
Heliotrope
Heliotropin, 200 parts; vanillin, 50 parts; tincture of musk, 100 parts; tincture of benzoin, 200 parts.
Lilac
Oil of turbentine, 200 parts; lily of the valley essence, 200 parts; tincture of musk, 200 parts; tincture of benzoin, 200 parts. Mix.
SOLID PERFUME
I
Procedure: Melt 8 oz. of hard paraffin, and just as it begins to thicken add 1 oz. of kaolin with which 4 dr. of concentrated essence has been intimately mixed. Finally pour into tin moulds of desired shape and size.
II
Procedure: Mix well finest plaster of Paris 4 oz. and powdered sodium chloride 10 gr. and make into a cream with water. Quickly add the essence, stir and pour into moulds.
