COSMETICS AND DRUGS
Pine Needle Bathing Salt
Formula No. 1
a. Salt ........................................................... 100 kg.
b. Water, Containing 5%
Uranin (Fluorescein-Sodium) .................. 2.5 kg.
c. Sodium Carbonate, Anhydrous .............. 2.0 kg.
d. Magnesium Carbonate ........................... 0.2 kg.
e. Pine Needle Essence .............................. 2-3 kg.
Mix a with b homogeneously, dry on a shelf and sift through
a sieve, mix then with c and d, in a drum, add e, mix again
thoroughly, fill into sealed cans.
No. 2
Sodium Bicarbonate ............................................ 10 g.
Starch Powder ....................................................... 1 g.
Tartaric Acid, Powdered ................................ 7.5 g.
Fluorescein or Uranin ................................ 0.1-0.2 g.
No. 3
Sodium Chloride ................................................. 70 g.
Pine Needle Extract, Genuine .......................... 18 g.
Ammonium Carbonate....................................... 10 g.
Perfume (Pine-Needle)........................................ 2 g.
Ocean Bathing Salt
(1000 g. per Bath)
Potassium Iodide ................................................. 1 g.
Potassium Bromide .......................................... 0.55 g.
Lithium Carbonate ........................................... 0.05 g.
Manganese Sulphate ...................................... 0.01 g.
Ferrous Sulphate ............................................ 0.01 g.
Potassium Chloride ........................................... 15 g.
Calcium Chloride ............................................ 40 g.
Magnesium Sulphate ..................................... 66.38 g.
Magnesium Chloride ......................................... 96 g.
Sodium Chloride ............................................... 781 g.
Oxygen Bathing Salt
Formula No. 1
Ammonium Carbonate, Dried ......................... 500 g.
Hydrogen Peroxide (3% ) ................................. 100 g.
Urea ....................................................................... 5 g.
No. 2
Urea Hydrogen Peroxide ............................ 50-100 g.
Sodium Pyrophosphate ...................................... 10 g.
No. 3 (Tablets)
Sodium Perborate.............................................. 800 g.
Starch .................................................................. 100 g.
Ammonium Carbonate..................................... 100 g.
Medical Bathing Salts
Carlsbad Well
Sodium Sulphate ................................................. 44 g.
Potassium Sulphate ............................................... 2 g.
Sodium Chloride ................................................. 18 g.
Sodium Bicarbonate ............................................ 36 g.
Friedrichshall
Sodium Chloride .............................................. 37.7 g.
Sodium Bromide ................................................ 0.3 g.
Potassium Chloride .............................................. 5 g.
Calcium Chloride ................................................ 19 g.
Magnesium Chloride .......................................... 37 g.
Calcium Sulphate, Precipitated .......................... 1 g.
Reichenhall
Potassium Chloride ............................................... 6 g.
Magnesium Chloride .......................................... 72 g.
Lithium Chloride .............................................. 0.15 g.
Sodium Chloride ................................................. 14 g.
Sodium Bromide .............................................. 0.85 g.
Magnesium Sulphate ........................................... 7 g.
Kreuznach
Sodium Chloride ................................................. 63 g.
Potassium Chloride ............................................. 75 g.
Calcium Chloride .............................................. 750 g.
Magnesium Chloride ........................................ 110 g.
Sodium Bromide ................................................... 2 g.
Hallein Well
Sodium Chloride .............................................. 69.3 g.
Magnesium Chloride .......................................... 27 g.
Sodium Bromide .............................................. 0.42 g.
Calcium Sulphate, Precipitated ......................... 10 g.
Sodium Sulphate ............................................. 2.28 g.
Vichy
Lithium Carbonate ........................................... 0.01 g.
Ferrous Sulphate ............................................. 0.05 g.
Manganese Sulphate ........................................ 0.01 g.
Sodium Chloride .............................................. 1.73 g.
Sodium Sulphate ................................................ 6.2 g.
Magnesium Sulphate ......................................... 2.6 g.
Calcium Chloride ............................................... 6.0 g.
Sodium Bicarbonate ......................................... 83.4 g.
Mud Bath Salt
Ferrous Sulphate .............................................. 900 g.
Calcium Sulphate, Precipitated ......................... 20 g.
Magnesium Sulphate......................................... 20 g.
Sodium Sulphate ................................................. 40 g.
Ammonium Sulphate ......................................... 20 g.
Optional, Dry Mud Earth.
“Saltrate Rodell”
Sodium Chloride, Powder ................................. 0.1 g.
Magnesium Carbonate ...................................... 0.5 g.
Potassium Carbonate ......................................... 0.1 g.
Lithium Carbonate.......................................... 0.05 g.
Calcium Sulphate, Powder .............................. 0.25 g.
Borax, Powdered ................................................. 10 g.
Sodium Bicarbonate ......................................... 30.5 g.
Ammonium Carbonate.................................... 52.5 g.
Sodium Thiosulphate......................................... 2.5 g.
Sodium Perborate.................................................. 3 g.
Stimulating Bathing Salt
Sodium Chloride, Powder ................................ 950 g.
Sodium Bicarbonate ............................................ 50 g.
Thyme Oil .............................................................. 2 cc.
Bergamot Oil Terpenes ......................................... 5 cc.
Orange Peel Terpenes ........................................... 1 cc.
Bergamot Oil .......................................................... 1 cc.
Terpineol ............................................................. 1.5 cc.
Methyl Naphthyl Ketone ................................. 0.5 cc.
Effervescent Tablets for Baths
Formula No. 1
Sodium Bicarbonate ........................................ 300 g.
Sodium Acid Sulphate ....................................275 g.
Starch .................................................................... 25 g.
No. 2
Saponin, Purified ................................................. 2 g.
Starch ................................................................... 25 g.
Sodium Bicarbonate .......................................... 90 g.
Tartaric Acid ....................................................... 70 g.
The stability can be increased by pressing the bicarbonate
and acid separately.
Effervescent Tablets with Wetting Agents
(Slow Development of Carbon Dioxide)
Formula No. 1
Starch .................................................................... 10 g.
Sodium Lauryl Sulphonate .............................. 10 g.
Sodium Bicarbonate .......................................... 46 g.
Tartaric Acid ........................................................ 34 g.
No. 2
Sodium Bicarbonate ............................................ 57 g.
Tartaric Acid ........................................................ 38 g
Saponin, Purified ................................................... 5 g.
Stearin, Powder .................................................... 5 g.
Almond Hand-Cleansing Paste
The “Almond Bran” is made out of two equal parts of
sweet and bitter Almonds. One can make a “Glycerin Paste” or
a “Camphor Paste.”
Glycerin Type
Two hundred fifty pounds of the bran are pounded with 5 lb.
of rose water and mixed with the following:
One-quarter pound bean or cornflour, 1-2 chicken eggs,
15 lb. borax, 5 lb. fine potassium carbonate, and about 50 lb.
glycerin.
The Camphor Paste is made by adding to the pounded
“Almond Bran” a mixture of 25 lb. each of 10% camphor oil and
spermaceti, molten together.
After cooling, add a powderized mixture of 100 lb. potato flour
and 50 lb. talc, and 100 lb. rose water. Mix well altogether. Color
with alkannin or curcuma.
Glycerin Jelly for the Hands
Wheat Starch .............................................. 10 g.
a. Water .......................................................... 15 g.
Glycerin .................................................... 100 g.
Tragacanth, White ....................................... 2 g.
b. Alcohol (90%) .............................................. 5 g.
Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate ....................... 0.5 g.
Grind a and b separately, mix, warm then on the water bath until
odor of alcohol disappears.
Glycerin Honey Jelly
Honey ................................................................... 20 g.
Water .................................................................. 500 g.
Glycerin .............................................................. 450 g.
Agar-Agar, Cut .................................................... 15 g.
Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate ................................ 1 g.
Warm to complete swelling and solution percolate, if necessary.
Stir, and add:
Formaldehyde (40%)............................................. 1 g.
Perfume Composition ........................................... 1 g.
Almond Hand-Cleansing Paste
The “Almond Bran” is made out of two equal parts of sweet and bitter Almonds. One can make a “Glycerin Paste” or a “Camphor Paste.”
Glycerin Type
Two hundred fifty pounds of the bran are pounded with 5 lb. of rose water and mixed with the following:
One-quarter pound bean or cornflour, 1-2 chicken eggs, 15 lb. borax, 5 lb. fine potassium carbonate, and about 50 lb. glycerin.
The Camphor Paste is made by adding to the pounded “Almond Bran” a mixture of 25 lb. each of 10% camphor oil and spermaceti, molten together.
After cooling, add a powderized mixture of 100 lb. potato flour and 50 lb. talc, and 100 lb. rose water. Mix well altogether. Color with alkannin or curcuma.
Glycerin Jelly for the Hands
Wheat Starch 10 g.
a. Water 15 g.
glycerin 100 g.
Tragacanth, White 2 g.
b. Alcohol (90%) 5 g.
Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0.5 g.
Grind a and b separately, mix, warm then on the water bath until
odor of alcohol disappears.
Glycerin Honey Jelly
Honey 20 g.
Water 500 g.
Glycerin 450 g.
Agar-Agar, Cut 15 g.
Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 1 g.
Warm to complete swelling and solution percolate, if necessary. Stir, and add:
Formaldehyde (40%) 1 g.
Perfume Composition 1 g.
Protective Hand Creams
Formula No. 1
Zinc Stearate, U.S.P. 10 g.
Aluminum Subacetate Solution N.F. (7½-8%) 15 g.
Gum Camphor 3 g.
Menthol Crystals 1 g.
Acid Carbolic, U.S.P. ½ g.
Glycerin, U.S.P. ½ g.
Lanolin, Anhydrous ½ g.
Gum Tragacanth 4½ g.
Soap (Low Alkali Content) 18 g.
White Rose Oil Technical ½ g.
Triethanolamine ½ g.
Water 46 g.
No. 2
Zinc Stearate, U.S.P. 10 g.
Aluminum Subacetate Solution N.F. (7½-8%) 15 g.
Gum Camphor 3 g.
Menthol Crystals 1 g.
Acid Carbolic, U.S.P. ½ g
Glycerin, U.S.P. ½ g
Lanolin, (Anhydrous) ½ g.
Gum Tragacanth 4½ g.
Soap (Low Alkali Content) 18 g.
White Rose Oil Technical ½ g.
Triethanolamine ½ g.
Water 44¼ g.
Sulpho Ammonium Ichthyolate 2 g.
No. 3
White Rose Technical Oil 35 g.
Paraffin Wax 55 g.
Ammonium Sulpho-Ichthyolate 2 g.
Stearic Acid 1 g.
Triethanolamine ½ g.
Water 7½ g.
No. 4
Glyceryl Monostearate 8 lb.
Magnesium Stearate 14 lb.
Beeswax 3 Ib.
Petrolatum 10 lb.
Mineral Oil, White 5 lb.
Water 60 lb.
Cuticle Softener
Formula No. 1
White Petrolatum (Short Fiber) 87.75 oz.
Paraffin (m.p. 125° F.) 9 oz.
Menthol 3 oz.
Thymol 25 oz.
Color (Oil Soluble Red) to suit
No. 2
Lanolin (Anhydrous) 12 oz.
Water (Distilled) 12 oz.
Lecithin 0.5 oz.
Cream Petrolatum (Short Fiber) 55.5 oz.
Mineral Oil (White) 20 oz.
Perfume to suit
Skin Cream
a. Stearin 85 g.
Lanolin 5 g.
Cetyl Alcohol 10 g.
Melt together.
b. Glycerin (28° Be.) 36 g.
Triethanolamine 5 cc.
Borax knife pointful
Water Boil. 250 cc.
Add b slowly to a, stir until cold. Perfume as desired is added at the end.
“Penetran” Skin Cosmetic
Paraffin Oil 20 cc.
Sperm (Whale) Oil 25 cc.
Parachol (Absorption Base) 5 g.
Cholesterin 0.5 g.
Lecithin 2.5 g.
Fatty Oil, Preserved 47 cc.
Wrinkle “Removing” Creams
Lanolin anhydrous 20 (parts by weight), cocoa butter 10, stearin 10, olive oil 12, cholesterol 2, lecithin 4, water 60, moldex 0.4, sodium benzoate 1. According to another method, a melted base is first prepared with white wax 60 (grams), spermaceti 10, stearin 50, lanolin 60, cocoa butter 40, and sweet almond oil 180. In this melt are dissolved 1.2 grams cholesterol, with further addition, after complete solution, of 170 g. water, 1.5 g. sodium benzoate and moldex, the mass being stirred until it thickens.
Skin “Food”
Formula No. 1
Lanolin (Anhydrous) U.S.P. 36.4 g.
Spermaceti, U.S.P. 6.4 g.
Snow White Petrolatum, U.S.P. 48.2 g.
Distilled Water 7.875 g.
Perfume Oil 1.125 g.
No. 2
Almond Oil 24 g.
Lanolin 22 g.
Soft Paraffin 11 g.
White Beeswax 3 g.
Mosquito Protection Cream (Non-Greasy) Formula No. 1
Soak
a. Agar-Agar 2 g.
Water, Cold 400 g.
Then warm slowly over gentle heat:
b. Melt Stearin 60 g.
c. Alcohol (95%) 10 g.
Potassium Carbonate 6 g.
d. Water 440 g.
Glycerin (28° Be.) 68 g.
Make up emulsion by warming and stirring.
Add a to the emulsion of b-c in d, both should be 80° C.; stir continously. When cold, add 12 g. of the following mixture:
Cedar Oil 7.5 g.
Citronella Oil 15 g.
Camphor 2 g
Eucalyptus Oil 4.5 g.
Alcohol 7 g.
No. 2
Treatment as above:
Agar-Agar 2.2 g.
Stearin 60 g.
Potassium Carbonate 4 g.
Sal Soda 2. g.
Alcohol 12 g.
Beeswax, White 8 g.
Lanolin (Anhydrous) 8 g.
Glycerin 60 g.
Water 830 g.
Beta Naphthol 1 g.
Essential Oils as in Formula No. 1
Treatment as in No. 1, saponify the fats (wax, lanolin, stearin) together.
Cleansers, Soaps and Detergents
Cleaning Preparations and Methods
To Remove Stains From the Hands:
Removal of Aniline-Dye Stains from the Skin.—Rub the stained skin with a pinch of slightly moistened red crystals of chromic trioxide until a distinct sensation of warmth announces the destruction of the dye stuff by oxidation and an incipient irritation of the skin. Then rinse with soap and water. A single application usually suffices to remove the stain. It is hardly necessary to call attention to the poisonousness and strong caustic action of chromic trioxide; but only moderate caution is required to avoid evil effects.
Pyrogallic–Acid Stains on the Fingers —Pyro stains may be prevented fairly well by rubbing in a little wool fat before beginning work. A very effective way of eliminating developer stains is to dip the finger tips occasionally during development into the clearing bath. It is best to use the clearing bath, with ample friction, before resorting to soap, as the latter seems to have a fixing effect upon the stain. Lemon peel is useful for removing pyro stains, and so are the ammonium persulphate reducer and the thiocarbamide clearer.
To Clean Very Soiled Hands.—In the morning wash in warm water, using a stiff brush, and apply glycerine. Repeat the application two or three times during the day, washing and brushing an hour or so afterwards, or apply a warm solution of soda or potash, and wash in warm water, using a stiff brush as before. Finally, rub the hands with pumice or infusorial earth. There are soaps made especially for this purpose, similar to those for use on woodwork, etc., in which infusorial earth or similar matter is incorporated.
To Remove Nitric-Acid Stains.—One plan to avoid stains is to use rubber finger stalls, or rubber gloves. Nitric-acid stains can be removed from the hands by painting the stains with a solution of permanganate of potash, and washing off the permanganate with a 5 per cent solution of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. After this wash the hands with pure castile soap. Any soap that roughens the skin should be avoided at all times. Castile soap is the best to keep the skin in good condition.
CLEANING GILDED ARTICLES:
To Clean Gilt Frames and Gilded Surfaces Generally.—Dip a soft brush in alcohol to which a few drops of ammonia water has been added, and with it go over the surface. Do not rub—at least, not roughly, or harshly. In the course of five minutes the dirt will have become soft, and easy of removal. Then go over the surface again gently with the same or a similar brush dipped in rain water. Now lay the damp article in the sunlight to dry. If there is no sunlight, place it near a warm (but not hot) stove, and let dry completely. In order to avoid streaks, take care that the position of the article, during the drying, is not exactly vertical.
To Clean Fire-Gilt Articles.—Fire-gilt articles are cleaned, according to their condition, with water, diluted hydrochloric acid, ammonia, or potash solution. If hydrochloric acid is employed thorough dilution with water is especially necessary. The acidity should hardly be noticeable on the tongue.
To clean gilt articles, such as gold molding, etc., when they have become tarnished or covered with flyspecks, etc., rub them slowly with an onion cut in half and dipped in rectified alcohol, and wash off lightly with a moist soft sponge after about 2 hours.
Cleaning Gilded and Polychromed Work on Altars.—To clean bright gold a fine little sponge is used which is moistened but lightly with tartaric acid and passed over the gilding. Next go over the gilt work with a small sponge saturated with alcohol to remove all dirt. For matt gilding, use only a white flannel dipped in lye, and carefully wipe off the dead gold with this, drying next with a fine linen rag. To clean polychromed work sponge with a lye of rain water, 1,000 parts, and calcined potash, 68 parts, and immediately wash off with a clean sponge and water, so that the lye does not attack the paint too much.
SPOT AND STAIN REMOVERS
To Remove Aniline Stains.—
1. Sodium nitrate ................................. 7 grains
Diluted sulphuric acid..................... 15 grains
Water................................................ 1 ounce
Let the mixture stand a day or two before using. Apply to the spot with a sponge, and rinse the goods with plenty of water.
2. An excellent medium for the removal of aniline stains, which are often very stubborn, has been found to be liquid opodeldoc. After its use the stains are said to disappear at once and entirely.
Cleansing Fluids.— A spot remover is made as follows:
1. Saponine........................................... 7 parts
Water............................................ 130 parts
Alcohol............................................ 70 parts
Benzine...................................... 1,788 parts
Oil mirbane....................................... 5 parts
2. Benzene (benzol)............................. 89 parts
Acetic ether..................................... 10 parts
Pear oil............................................. 1 part
This yields an effective grease eradicator, of an agreeable odor.
3. To Remove Stains of Sulphate of copper, or of salts of mercury, silver, or gold from the hands, etc., wash them first with a dilute solution either of ammonia, iodide, bromide, or cyanide of potassium, and then with plenty of water; if the stains are old ones they should first be rubbed with the strongest acetic acid and then treated as above.
Removal of Picric-Acid Stains.—1. Recent stains of picric acid may be removed readily if the stain is covered with a layer of magnesium carbonate, the carbonate moistened with a little water to form a paste, and the paste then rubbed over the spot.
2. —Apply a solution of
Boric acid......... 4 parts
Sodium benzoate...................... 1 part
Water............................ 100 parts
3.—Dr. Prieur, of Besancon, recommends lithium carbonate for the removal of picric-acid stains from the skin or from linen. The method of using it is simply to lay a small pinch on the stain, and moisten the latter with water. Fresh stains disappear almost instantly, and old ones in a minute or two.
To Remove Finger Marks from Books, etc.—1. Pour benzol (not benzine or gasoline, but Merck’s “c. p.” crystallizable) on calcined magnesia until it becomes a crumbling mass, and apply this to the spot, rubbing it in lightly, with the tip of the finger. When the benzol evaporates, brush off. Any dirt that remains can be removed by using a piece of soft rubber.
2.—If the foregoing fails (which it sometimes, though rarely, does), try the following: Make a hot solution of sodium hydrate in distilled water, of strength of from 3 per cent to 5 per cent, according to the age, etc., of the stain. Have prepared some bits of heavy blotting paper somewhat larger than the spot to be removed; also, a blotting pad, or several pieces of heavy blotting paper. Lay the soiled page face downward on the blotting pad, then, saturating one of the bits of blotter with the hot sodium hydrate solution, put it on the stain and go over it with a hot smoothing iron. If one application does not remove all the grease or stain, repeat the operation. Then saturate another bit of blotting paper with a 4 per cent or 5 per cent solution of hydrochloric acid in distilled water, apply it to the place, and pass the iron over it to neutralize the strong alkali. This process will instantly restore any faded writing or printing, and make the paper bright and fresh again.
Glycerine as a Detergent. — For certain kinds of obstinate spots (such as coffee and chocolate, for instance) there is no better detergent than glycerine, especially for fabrics with delicate colors. Apply the glycerine to the spot, with a sponge or otherwise, let stand a minute or so, then wash off with water or alcohol. Hot glycerine is even more efficient than cold.
CLEANING SKINS AND LEATHER:
To Clean Colored Leather. — Pour carbon bisulphide on non-vulcanized guttapercha, and allow it to stand about 24 hours. After shaking actively add more gutta-percha gradually until the solution becomes of gelatinous consistency. This mixture is applied in suitable quantity to oil-stained, colored leather and allowed to dry two or three hours. The subsequent operation consists merely in removing the coat of gutta-percha from the surface of the leather—that is, rubbing it with the fingers, and rolling it off the surface.
The color is not injured in the least by the sulphuret of carbon; only those leathers on which a dressing containing starch has been used look a little lighter in color, but the better class of leathers are not so dressed. The dry gutta-percha can be redissolved in sulphuret of carbon and used over again.
To Clean Skins Used for Polishing Purposes. — First heat them thoroughly to get rid of dust, then go over the surface on both sides with a piece of good white soap and lay them in warm water in which has been put a little soda. Let them lie here for 2 hours, then wash them in plenty of tepid water, rubbing them vigorously until perfectly clean. This bath should also be made alkaline with soda. The skins are finally rinsed in warm water, and dried quickly. Cold water must be avoided at all stages of the cleansing process, as it has a tendency to shrink and harden the skins.
The best way to clean a chamois skin is to wash and rinse it out in clean water immediately after use, but this practice is apt to be neglected so that the skin becomes saturated with dirt and grime. To clean it, first thoroughly soak in clean, soft water. Then, after soaping it and rolling it into a compact wad, beat with a small round stick — a buggy spoke, say — turning the wad over repeatedly, and keeping it well wet and soaped. This should suffice to loosen the dirt. Then rinse in clean water until the skin is clean. As wringing by hand is apt to injure the chamois skin, it is advisable to use a small clothes wringer. Before using the skin again rinse it in clear water to which a little pulverized alum has been added.
STRAW-HAT RENOVATION:
To Renovate Straw Hats.—1.—Hats made of natural (uncolored) straw, which have become soiled by wear, may be cleaned by thoroughly sponging with a weak solution of tartaric acid in water, followed by water alone. The hat after being so treated should be fastened by the rim to a board by means of pins, so that it will keep its shape in drying.
2.—Sponge the straw with a solution of
By weight
Sodium hyposulphite.............................. 10 parts
Glycerine...................................... 5 parts
Alcohol........................................ 10 parts
Water.......................................... 75 parts
Lay aside in a damp place for 24 hours and then apply
By weight
Citric acid.............................................. 2 parts
Alcohol.......... 10 parts
Water.................................. 90. parts
Press with a moderately hot iron, after stiffening with weak gum water, if necessary.
3.—If the hat has become much darkened in tint by wear the fumes of burning sulphur may be employed. The material should be first cleaned by thoroughly sponging with an aqueous solution of potassium carbonate, followed by a similar application of water, and it is then suspended over the sulphur fumes. These are generated by placing in a metal or earthen dish, so mounted as to keep the heat from setting fire to anything beneath, some brimstone (roll sulphur), and sprinkling over it some live coals to start combustion. The operation is conducted in a deep box or barrel, the dish of burning sulphur being placed at the bottom, and the article to be bleached being suspended from a string stretched across the top. A cover not fitting so tightly as to exclude all air is placed over it, and the apparatus allowed to stand for a few hours.
Hats so treated will require to be stiffened by the application of a little gum water, and pressed on a block with a hot iron to bring them back into shape.
Waterproof Stiffening for Straw Hats.—If a waterproof stiffening is required use one of the varnishes for which formulas follow:
1.— Copal............................. 450 parts
Sandarac.......................... 75 parts
Venice turpentine............................ 40. parts
Castor oil........................... 5 parts
Alcohol........ 800 parts
2.— Shellac.......................... 500 parts
Sandarac....................... 175 parts
Venice turpentine............................ 50 parts
Castor oil............................... 15 parts
Alcohol................................... 2,000 parts
3.—..................................... Shellac 750 parts
Rosin................................... 150 parts
Venice turpentine ........................ 150 parts
Castor oil............................... 20 parts
Alcohol.............................. 2,500 parts
How to Clean a Panama Hat.—Scrub with castile soap and warm water, a nail brush being used as an aid to get the dirt away. The hat is then placed in the hot sun to dry and in the course of two or three hours is ready for use. It will not only be as clean as when new but it will retain its shape admirably. The cleaned hat will be a trifle stiff at first, but will soon grow supple under wear.
A little glycerine added to the rinsing water entirely prevents the stiffness and brittleness acquired by some hats in drying, while a little ammonia in the washing water materially assists in the scrubbing process. Ivory, or, in fact, any good white soap, will answer as well as castile for the purpose. It is well to rinse a second time, adding the glycerine to the water used the second time. Immerse the hat completely in the rinse water, moving it about to get rid of traces of the dirty water. When the hat has been thoroughly rinsed, press out the surplus water, using a Turkish bath towel for the purpose, and let it rest on the towel when drying.
PAINT, VARNISH, AND ENAMEL REMOVERS:
To Remove Old Oil, Paint, or Varnish Coats.—1. Apply a mixture of 1 part 28 per cent ammonia water, 36 parts sand, 63 parts of 40 per cent soda lye. The composition dissolves the old varnish coat, as well as the paint, down to the bottom. The varnish coatings which are to be removed may be brushed off or left for days in a hardened state. Upon being thoroughly moistened with water the old varnish may be readily washed off, the lacquer as well as the oil paint coming off completely. The ammonia otherwise employed dissolves the varnish, but not the paint.
2.—Apply a mixture of 1 part oil of turpentine and 2 parts of ammonia. This is effective, even if the coatings withstand the strongest lye. The two liquids are shaken in a bottle until they mix like milk. The mixture is applied to the coating with a little oakum; after a few minutes the old paint can be wiped off.
To Clean Brushes and Vessels of Dry Paint — The cleaning of the brushes and vessels in which the varnish or oil paint had dried is usually done by boiling with soda solution. This frequently spoils the brushes or cracks the vessels if of glass; besides, the process is rather slow and dirty. A much more suitable remedy is amyl acetate, which is a liquid with a pleasant odor of fruit drops, used mainly for dissolving and cementing celluloid. If amyl acetate is poured over a paint brush the varnish or hardened paint dissolves almost immediately and the brush is again rendered serviceable at once. If necessary, the process is repeated. For cleaning vessels shake the liquid about in them, which softens the paint so that it can be readily removed with paper. In this manner much labour can be saved. The amyl acetate can be easily removed from the brushes, etc., by alcohol or oil of turpentine.
Varnish and Paint Remover.—Dissolve 20 parts of caustic soda (98 per cent) in 100 parts of water, mix the solution with 20 parts of mineral oil, and stir in a kettle provided with a mechanical stirrer, until the emulsion is complete. Now add, with stirring, 20 parts of sawdust and pass the whole through a paint mill to obtain a uniform intermixture. Apply the paste moist.
To Remove Varnish from Metal.—To remove old varnish from metals, it suffices to dip the articles in equal parts of ammonia and alcohol (95 per cent).
To Remove Water Stains from Varnished Furniture.—Pour olive oil into a dish and scrape a little white wax into it. This mixture should be heated until the wax melts and rubbed sparingly on the stains. Finally, rub the surface with a linen rag until it is restored to brilliancy.
COSMETICS, DESTRICES ANDDEPILATORIES
Creams
Cold creams are the most basic and still the most important creams that are sold. Cold creams are usually formulated using mineral oil as a softening and cleansing agent, and emulsifying with water by the action of borax on beeswax.
A rather soft but exceptionally smooth cream is made as follows:
Mineral Oil...................................... 1 gal.
Beeswax........................................... 1¾ lb.
Heat the above to 160º F. Dissolve 1½ oz. of borax in 6 pints of water, heat to 160ºF. and add this solution to the oil and wax with rapid stirring. When the temperature drops to 140º, add 1 oz. of perfume oil and pour the cream at about 120º.
This basic formula may be modified by replacing up to half of the beeswax with paraffin, ceresin, ozokerite or spermaceti.
The oil may be replaced in part by petrolatum or by the vegetable oils. If vegetable oils are used, a preservative should be employed.
Materials such as lanolin and absorption base may be introduced in small quantities.
Cold Cream
Mineral Oil...................................... 54 %
White Wax....................................... 18 %
Absorption Base................................ 5.5%
Borax................................................ 1%
Water.............................................. 21 %
Perfume.............................................. .5%
Melt the white wax, add the mineral oil. Dissolve borax in part of water with heat. Add to melted fats. Heat rest of water, stir in absorption base until smooth and mix with fats. Agitate thoroughly and when just above solidifying point, add perfume.
Cleansing Cream
A second type of cold cream is based on the action of triethanolamine on stearic acid.
The following are examples of this procedure:
Cleansing Cream
Mineral Oil................................ 76 lb.
1. White wax................................... 5 lb.
Spermaceti ............................... 26 lb.
Trihydroxyethylamine Stearate... 20 lb.
2. Perfume....................................... 1 lb.
3. Glycerin...................................... 4 lb.
Water........................................ 92 lb.
Heat Nos. 1 and 3 separately to 200º F.; then add Nos. 1 to 2
slowly, stirring thoroughly. When the cream begins to set., the perfume is added and stirred in. Allow to stand over night. Stir thoroughly the next morning and package. This cream will not sweat oil during hot weather and will maintain its consistency.
A third type of cream is that in which the emulsifying agent is either glyceryl monostearate or glycosterin.
These creams are emulsions of oil in water and for that reason evaporate quickly, and produces a cooling effect. They are much more water soluble than the beeswax type creams. These creams should be packed in air tight jars as there is a tendency for a small amount of water to separate from them.
The following are examples of this type product:
Cold Cream (Non-Greasy)
1. Glyceryl Monostearate................ 22 lb.
2. Petrolatum (Vaseline)................. 16 lb.
3. Paraffin Wax.............................. 12 lb.
4. Mineral Oil................................ 30 lb.
5. Water........................................ 98 lb.
Heat first four ingredients to 170º F. and stir together. Then slowly with stirring pour in the water which has been heated to the same temperature. Stir thoroughly and then allow to stand (hot) until air bubbles are gone. Add perfume and stir and pour at 110-130ºF. Cover jars as soon as possible.
Neutral Cleansing Cream
1. Mineral Oil................................ 80 lb.
2. Spermaceti................................ 30 lb.
3. Glyecryl Monostearate................ 24 lb.
4. Water........................................ 90 lb.
5. Glycerin.................................... 10 lb.
6. Perfume to suit.
Heat 1, 2 and 3 to 140º F. and stir into it slowly 4 and 5 heated to same temperature. Add perfume, at 105ºF., stir slowly until cold; after allowing to stand for 5 minutes stir until smooth and pack.
A four purpose cream that cleans, nourishes, stimulates and acts as a powder base is made as follows:
Mineral Oil....................................... 3 pints
Petrolatum (white)........................... ½ lb.
(heat to 140º F.)
Water................................................ 4½ pints
Glycerin............................................ 5 oz.
Preservative..................................... ½ oz.
Heat to 140º F. and add slowly with stirring to oil mixture. As the temperature falls, a gelatinous mass forms at 120ºF. I oz. perfume oil is added while stirring and the gelatinous msss changes to a white cream. Slow stirring is continued until cold. This cream may be packed either in tubes or jars.
This cream can be modified by various coloring agents and perfume as under cold cream to obtain specialty creams. Since it is neutral there may be incorporated in it viosterol, or gland or hormone extracts.
Liquefying- Cleansing Creams
This type of cream is composed of approximately 50% mineral oil together with petrolatum to give sufficient viscosity so that when the cream liquefies on the skin, it suspends the dirt which is removed from the pores.
The following formulae give excellent results:
Formula No. 1—Soft Translucent
Mineral Oil (light or medium)........... 56 parts
Paraffin........................................... 25 parts
Petrolatum (white)........................... 19 parts
Formula No. 2—Medium Translucent
Mineral Oil (light or medium)........... 50 parts
Paraffin........................................... 18 parts
Petrolatum (white)........................... 23 parts
Spermaceti........................................ 9 parts
Formula No. 3—Medium Opaque
Mineral Oil (light or medium)........... 50 parts
Paraffin........................................... 30 parts
Petrolatum (white)........................... 20 parts
Perfumes
The compounding of perfumes and perfume oils is rather complex. These products are made from mixtures of natural oils together with synthetic aromatic chemicals and natural isolates, as well as certain animal derivatives.
Certain of the aromatic chemicals are necessary to secure reproductions of certain of the natural flower odors, and they, when blended properly with the natural flower oils, give products of the desired character.
In the preparation of extracts, an oil is added to alcohol at anywhere from 8 to 16 ounces per gallon of alcohol, although in certain cases up to 20 ounces are used.
For pre-fixing alcohol, small amounts of the natural resins or gums, or small amounts of the animal derivatives, such as: ambergris, civet or castorium, are allowed to stand in alcohol for at least a month before it is used. The addition of small amounts of water to an alcoholic extract will reduce the tendency towards the alcoholic sharpness.
Toilet Waters
Toilet waters are made in a similar fashion to the perfume extracts, excepting that a 60-70% alcoholic concentration is used, and from 3-6 ounces of oil are used per gallon of 60-70% alcohol.
Shaving Creams
Shaving creams are special types of soap.
A shaving cream must
1. Lather freely and rapidly.
2. Lather is hot or cold water.
3. Be dense and firm.
4. Be capable of being worked into a dense and voluminous lather.
5. Must not form too soluble a lather which would wash off with excess water.
6. Lather must not dry rapidly but should remain must for some time.
7. Must be a powerful emulsifying agent, cut surface tension and have good degreasing properties.
8. Must be stable in tube or jar and not dry out or turn hard and gummy and maintain the same consistency for all reasonable temperatures.
The problem of the shaving soap is a problem of balance, so as to obtain a combination which most nearly gives the desired result.
The addition of a sufficient amount of glycerin will help keep the lather moist. The amount generally used is about 10% of the
finished cream.
Analysis of the average shaving cream will generally show as follows:
Actual soap content......................... 40%
Water.............................................. 50%
Glycerin.......................................... 10%
For the rapid lather a very ‘‘soluble’’ soap is required. If the cream consists entirely of rapid lathering soap, it will be too soluble and will wash away in hot water or on vigorous rubbing, therefore, a large quantity of the ‘‘less-soluble” soap is required. The more soluble soaps are made from the more soluble oils. These are represented by coconut oil and palm kernel oil. Because of their solubility, they will give a rapid lather, will lather up in cold water or in hard water, but will wash away in hot water or on vigorous rubbing. Because both coconut and palm kernel contain lower molecular weight acids, they will irritate the face if used in too high concentrations. They are generally limited to about 15% or less of the total fat content. While both are satisfactory, coconut is the more widely used, since the odor of palm kernel is more likely to occur in the finished soap. However, a type of deodorized palm kernel has recently been made available.
The soap required to give a more lasting lather, which will retain its body in hot water, must contain a soap such as tallow, stearic acid or palm oil. if a very dense, persistent lather is required, fats containing large amounts of behenic acid may be used.
The consistency desired is obtained not only by a balancing of soaps according to the fatty acids contained, but also by the proper balancing of sodium and potassium soaps. Too much sodium soap cannot be used because of its hardness.
The proper blends of soaps, glycerin and water, is all that a shaving cream consists of. Some contain borax and other fillers. A typical shaving cream formula would be as follows:
Coconut Oil....................................... 9
Tallow............................................... 3
Stearic Acid..................................... 28
Sodium Hydroxide............................. 1
Potassium Hydroxide......................... 7
Glycerin.......................................... 10
Water.............................................. 45
Sodium Hydroxide is prepared as a 20º Bé, solution, using part of the water, in the formula.
Potassium Hydroxide is prepared as a 35º Bé solution.
Glycerin, coconut oil and tallow are melted in the tank. The sodium hydroxide is run in slowly making sure that saponification is complete.
The excess fat is now saponified with potash, ½ the potash is added to the tank and the mass agitated until saponification appears to be complete. The stearic acid is melted and added and finally the remainder of the potash solution. The mass is stirred until neutralization is complete, and then adjusted to the amount of free stearic acid desired. Three per cent excess stearic acid is commonly used.
This soap when made will be very thick while hot, but will soften on cooling. It is possible to keep the soap thin while hot as by finishing with a large excess of stearic acid which may be later neutralized by adding the appropriate amount of potash solution to the cold soap with suitable agitation.
Liquid Shaving Creams
Stearic Acid................................... 200 g.
Triethanolamine.............................. 10 g.
Water............................................ 800 g.
Thicker Creams
Stearic Acid................................... 200 g.
Triethanolamine.............................. 10 g.
Anhydrous Sodium Carbonate.......... 10 g.
Water............................................ 800 g.
After Shaving Preparations
Almond Cream for After Shaving
Formula No. 1
Potassium Carbonate......................... 1 oz. 130 grains
Distilled Water................................ 15 oz.
Dissolve Potassium Carbonate in water, filter.
Formula No. 2
Gum Tragacanth............................ 175 grains
Glycerin.......................................... 10 oz.
Borax.............................................. 1 oz.
Distilled Water................................ 64 oz.
In 20 oz. hot water dissolve Borax then add Gum Tragacanth and Glycerin. Allow to stand 12 hours, stirring frequently. When gum has formed mucilage add the remaining 44 oz. of water while stirring and strain through muslin.
Formula No. 3
Stearic Acid triple pressed................. 5 oz. 260 grains
Oil Sweet Almond.............................. 3 oz.
Ethyl Amino Benzoate................... ½ oz.
Melt acid and oil together and add Ethyl Amino Benzoate. Stir until dissolved and adjust temperature to 70ºC.
After Shave Lotion
Menthol............................................ 1 dram
Boric Acid......................................... 2½ oz.
Glycerin............................................ 5 oz.
Alcohol.............................................. 5 quarts
Water, to make.................................. 5 gal.
Perfume
Dissolve menthol in alcohol Add boric acid, perfume, and glycerin. Stir thoroughly until everything is dissolved. Add water. Filter. This preparation may be colored by adding enough color to give shade desired.
Styptics
Styptic Pencils
The following are the methods adopted for the manufacture of alum pencils: White: Liquefy 100 gm. of potassium alum crystals by the aid of heat. Remove any scum and avoid overheating, particularly of the sides of the vessel in which liquefaction is being carried out. The molten liquid should be perfectly clear. Triturate a mixture of French chalk in fine powder, 5 gm., glycerin 5 gm. to a paste, incorporate with the liquefied alum and pour into suitable molds. A white appearance can be imparted to the resulting pencils by the addition of more French chalk. near: Carefully liquefy potassium alum crystals so as to avoid loss of water of crystallization, adding a small amount of glycerin and water (about 5 per cent) until a clear liquid is obtained. This is poured whilst hot, into suitable molds, previously smeared with fat. The solidified pencils are rendered smooth by rubbing them with a moistened piece of cloth.
Styptic Powder
An excellent styptic powder results from the mixture of 50% powdered talc and 50% phthalyl peroxide. The latter often contains up to 40% of its weight as phthalic acid; this is beneficial and acts as a stabilizer. The mixture is antiseptic.
Nail Polish
The formulation of a suitable nail polish presents problems peculiar in itself. The properties desired in the finished product are:
1. Ease of application
2. Drying time
3. Appearance of dry film
4. Permanency
Ease of application is essential. If th polish is too thin, it will tend to floy too readily when applied to the nail, and will give difficulty in securing a smooth even coat. If the polish is too thick, a lumpy, streaky finish will result. In other words, the viscosity of the polish should be such that it will allow an even film to be brushed upon the nail. The drying time should be such that when the nails of the second hand are finished, the coat on those of the first hand should be sufficiently dry to permit the second application. Naturally, this applies only to the so-called “2 coat polishes.”
The dry film should present an even appearance, any ridges, streaks, or even pinholes being absent. Finally, a good nail polish should remain on the finger nails for at least 5-7 days with little diminution of its original brilliance, and should show no signs of cracking and peeling.
True solvents, such as acetone, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, etc., give free flowing solutions whose viscosity can be influenced by increased concentration of low viscosity cotton or by the addition of non-solvents, such as toluene, xylene, etc. Commercial nitrocellulose is manufactured in various viscosities, ½ second, 4 seconds, 15-20 seconds, 40 seconds, etc. However, ½ second regular soluble nitrocellulose generally furnishes the basis of nail polishes. This permits the incorporation of a sufficient solid content, whereas the higher viscosity cottons, even in small quantities, give a much too viscous product.
